Essential Guide to Tailoring: Construction
Elevate the quality, longevity and beauty of any garment you sew. Learn professional methods for constructing tailored sleeves, collars, pockets and more.
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Elevate the quality, longevity and beauty of any garment you sew. Learn professional methods for constructing tailored sleeves, collars, pockets and more.
Sleeve Insertion
Meet Britain’s top sewing instructor, Alison Smith, who will guide you through essential tailoring techniques, beginning with jacket sleeve insertions using both traditional and speed tailoring methods. You’ll learn how to add structure with a sleeve head and insert shoulder pads for even weight distribution.
Classic Collars
Mandarin and Peter Pan collars must be absolutely symmetrical to look good. Learn Allison’s techniques for accurately marking and sewing such collars, adding a jacket facing and reducing seam bulk, then pressing for perfection. You’ll also see how to get a perfect roll line on a simple shawl collar.
Notched Collars
Learn the secrets to making a traditional notched collar lie smoothly on the back of the neck. Alison explains turn of the cloth and how to adjust for it, as well as how to make a tailor’s blister that will hold a tiny amount of fabric in reserve and help your collar points stay flat.
Melton Undercollars
A lightweight melton undercollar is a classic option for jackets and coats made of heavier fabric. Alison walks you through the steps of preparing your undercollar, attaching it to your garment and then adding the upper collar, finishing with flat-fell and herringbone stitches.
Curved Jetted Pockets
Achieve the sophisticated, vintage look of a curved, jetted pocket with Alison’s guidance. You’ll see how to draft the pocket and cut out its components, shaping the bias pieces into curves. Learn tricks for tacking, sewing, slashing and turning before adding the pocket bag.
Welt Pockets on Trousers
Your hardest-working pocket might be the back welt pocket on trousers. Learn how to make a pocket that is sturdy enough to hold your wallet or phone and not stretch out of shape when you sit down. Alison guides you through!
Trouser Waistbands
Learn to add a center back seam to a trouser waistband that will help eliminate annoying gaps. Alison shows how a wider seam allowance at that seam adds padding for a smooth fit, while a cotton lining keeps the waistband cool and comfortable.
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