Estonian Lace Explained

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Last updated on January 20, 2026 8:50 pm

Knit amazing Estonian lace! Learn to create the nupps, openwork patterns and edgings that make this storied style so special.

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Knit amazing Estonian lace! Learn to create the nupps, openwork patterns and edgings that make this storied style so special.

A History of Haapsalu Lace

Meet Estonian lace expert Nancy Bush and learn about the history of lace from Haapsalu, a port city famed for its gorgeous, intricate shawls and scarves in a variety of shapes. In this class you’ll make a smaller sampler shawl that will familiarize you with Estonian knitting techniques. The pattern for a full-sized shawl is also included.

Casting On & Working the Lace Edge

Nancy shows you how to use a knitted cast-on with doubled yarn to create a firm edge for the top of your shawl, then how to follow the chart for the edging’s lace stitches. When your top edge is complete, Nancy demonstrates how to transition into the central stitch pattern.

Working the Center

A tidy edge is key for smooth seaming when you attach the edging later. Nancy shares the technique for a slip-stitch edge and garter border before knitting the lacy center. You’ll also learn how to create the star feature of Estonian shawls, the nupp (pronounced “noop”).

A Close-Up Look at Nupps

A nupp is a “gathering of light” — a group of stitches that are knitted together to form a bud of fabric within a lace pattern. Nancy discusses the history and uses of the nupp in Estonian knitting, then shares tips for fixing them should you discover a mistake. You’ll also learn how to make nupps with more stitches when you’re working with finer yarn.

Finishing the Center

Estonian lace shawls can be gratifying to knit because they decrease to a point. The closer you get to the end, the faster the knitting goes! Nancy shows how to handle the decreases and bind off the last three stitches in the Estonian style. Along the way, she’ll show you two methods for invisibly splicing if you need to add new yarn.

The Outer Edge

Your shawl is almost finished! You’ll knit an edging in the same pattern as the top of the shawl, bind it off, then sew it to the edge of your shawl. Thanks to your tidy edges and Nancy’s clear instruction, you’ll find that your edges match up perfectly. Finally, you’ll attach the edging at the corners.

Finishing

Weave in those ends with Nancy’s guidance, then wet-block your scarf for a perfect finish. Your gorgeous accessory is ready to wear and collect admiring glances!

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    Estonian Lace Explained
    Estonian Lace Explained
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