Full Bust Adjustment for Any Pattern

Class Preview

Embrace your shape! Adjust any pattern to fit and flatter your figure. Busts come in all different shapes and sizes, and your pattern should work with your body, not the other way around. Body-positive sewing expert Jenny Rushmore helps you conquer a successful full bust adjustment (FBA) — the most common fitting challenge — and confidently work with any type of pattern. Understand what types of patterns need an FBA and how to approach the FBA for styles with single bust darts, bust and waist darts, no darts, princess seams and more. Learn how to refine post-FBA dart placement and manage extra-large FBAs. With Jenny’s step-by-step guidance, you’ll master the FBA for any style and cup size to perfectly fit your natural curves.

What’s an FBA?

Jenny Rushmore begins with a complete overview of full bust adjustments (FBA), including a discussion of popular pattern lines and how they differ in fit. From there, learn how to take accurate key measurements to help guide your adjustments.

Styles With Darts

Jenny walks you through an FBA on a simple bodice style that has one bust dart. See how to add width and length exactly where you need it. Then adapt this technique for styles that have bust and waist darts, as well as French darts.

Refining Darts

Once you’ve made the essential FBA adjustments, refine the position of your darts by shortening, lengthening, lowering or raising them. Learn how to split and rotate your darts to customize garment style lines. After that, Jenny gives a quick review of sewing and pressing for pucker-free results.

Styles Without Darts

How do you adjust dartless patterns? In this lesson, Jenny shows you how to adjust woven fabric patterns by creating darts (or not!). Get her tips for working with dartless patterns and cut-on sleeves. And, learn to adjust those popular dartless patterns designed for knit fabrics.

Styles With Princess Seams

Princess seams are actually two darts blended into one seam, but the FBA requires a different treatment. Have no fear! With Jenny’s expert tips and techniques, you can easily adjust princess seams that end at the armscye or shoulder, and even sew them for larger busts.

Troubleshooting & Perfecting

Jenny ends class by sharing smart tips for managing extra-large FBAs and working with long front pieces (e.g. dress patterns without waist seams). She also demonstrates how to expertly handle any armhole or neckline gapings that may result from your adjustments.