Mastering Construction: Zippers & Waistbands

Class Preview

Designer-quality sewing is all in the details. Learn to choose, apply and finish the perfect zippers, fly fronts and waistbands for every design.

Introduction

Meet designer Sara Alm and learn how to use this class and the “Mastering Construction” series as a reference for all your sewing projects to produce more professional results.

Zipper Considerations

Sara gives an overview of different zipper types and their applications, then shows how to set up your fabric for a zipper application and how to shorten a variety of zipper types. Miniature pattern pieces are included with your class materials so you can practice!

Slot & Invisible Zippers

Try the vintage appeal of a slot zipper, especially on garments with lots of topstitching. Or consider Sara’s favorite, the invisible zipper. Sara walks you through the zipper’s insertion, even with tricky fabrics, and you’ll see just why you’ll want to add an invisible zipper foot to your arsenal of presser feet.

Lapped, Exposed & Separating Zippers

Lapped and exposed zippers pose unique challenges, but follow Sara’s guidance and you’ll have rewarding results. A hidden lapped zipper is perfect for the side seam of a skirt, while an exposed zipper can provide a pop of color in a garment or bag. You can use either style with a separating zipper — Sara will show you how!

Fly Front

Commercial patterns sometimes include a mock fly rather than a full zipper fly. Sara shows how to add a true zipper fly to your patterns and draft a facing to keep the zipper teeth safely away from your skin. Then sew it all together along with Sara! Practice pattern pieces are included.

Waistbands

Sara reviews straight and contoured waistbands and how to cut them out, whether on the straight of grain or the bias. You’ll also learn the best ways to stabilize your fabric with elastic, interfacing, ribbon or stay tape, particularly on contoured waistbands, where too much bias can cause distortion.

Waistband Finishing

Give your waistbands a tidy finish with binding or using the selvage edge of your fabric. Sara demonstrates an easy way to make belt loops and how to attach them for different belt options, then shares tips for adding button or hook-and-bar closures. Finally, learn how to enclose the waistband extensions and the waistband itself without hand-stitching.

Facings

If you opt to finish pants or skirts with a facing or yoke instead of a waistband, Sara’s got you covered. Using the miniature pattern pieces provided, you can practice drafting your own facings or yokes and adding them to skirts with invisible, slot or lapped zippers. Sara will show you how!