Sew Better, Sew Faster: Smart Construction

Class Preview

Swiftly sew jackets they’ll swear are ready-to-wear. Use the industry’s best speed tailoring techniques for flawless seams, zippers, linings and more — fast! Note: Pattern not included. You’ll find a coupon in the materials to purchase it from Islander Sewing.

Overview & Preparing the Jacket

Meet sewing industry veteran Janet Pray and learn more about the MotorCity Express jacket she designed just for you! Janet discusses the fashion fabrics, linings, interlinings and interfacing you might use, from a sophisticated felted wool lined with Bemberg rayon to a fun and funky silk tweed with charmeuse lining. Then, get started with interfacing and marking your pattern pieces.

Professional Preparations

Janet shows how to customize your jacket’s zippers for the asymmetrical front opening, pockets and cuffs. Then learn to sew efficiently without pins as you assemble the jacket’s back panels. You’ll also sew the lining pieces, leaving an opening for bagging the lining later.

Beginning Jacket Construction

Use Janet’s technique for letting your sewing machine’s feed dogs ease the lining to the facing along the princess seam for a flattering fit. Then, employ crimping to accomplish the more drastic easing in the sleeve lining at the elbow. You’ll learn Janet’s professional pressing tips before sewing the lining to the facing at the neckline and shoulder seams with perfect corners.

Facings & Pockets

Apply the facings to your sleeves to support the zippers at the cuffs and add the facings for your zippered pockets. When you press your work with Janet’s guidance, you’ll be impressed with your results!

Inserting Zippers

Zip through your zipper installations with ease! Janet shows how to get professional results with the front separating zipper and the sleeve zippers, complete with gussets. You’ll also see how to install the window zippers without puckers or dimples.

Completing the Jacket Shell

Complete the construction of your jacket, finishing the fronts and sewing them to the backs, sewing the pockets and setting in the sleeves. Janet walks you through step by step. You’ll never fear sleeves again!

Bagging the Lining & Final Touches

It’s time to finish your jacket by attaching and bagging the lining. Janet shows how to attach the lining to your sleeve cuffs and stitch in the ditch around the collar to keep the layers flat. Finally, sew up the last gap in your lining by machine — no hand-stitching needed — and topstitch as desired. Your trendy jacket is ready to wear!