Sewing Bras: Construction & Fit

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Last updated on December 23, 2024 4:26 am

Make the most supportive, comfortable bras you’ve ever owned. Get step-by-step guidance for sewing bras with a flawless fit.

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Make the most supportive, comfortable bras you’ve ever owned. Get step-by-step guidance for sewing bras with a flawless fit.

Introduction

Meet your “fairy bra mother,” Beverly Johnson, and learn about the construction of a classic, full-band bra suitable for all bust sizes. Beverly will show you how to measure yourself to choose the correct size, what to look for in a pattern and the best fabrics to start with.

Constructing the Bra: Cup & Frame

Get started with your bra sewing by laying out your pattern pieces and cutting out your fabric according to the direction of greatest stretch. Beverly shares tips for marking the pieces, then shows how to sew the cups, attach the straps, sew the side seams, attach the cups to the frame and add channeling for optional underwires.

Constructing the Bra: Applying the Elastic

Elastic is the key to your bra’s effectiveness in providing comfortable support. Beverly walks you through the application of elastic to the bottom and top bands and demonstrates how to add trim to the neckline. You’ll also learn how to add bar tacks to the end of the channeling to keep an underwire in place and away from the skin.

Constructing the Bra: Hardware & Finishing

Finish up your bra with topstitched channeling, back straps with sliders, and a hook-and-eye closure. Beverly discusses underwire options and shows how to insert them. Your new bra is ready to wear or be used as a fitting model so you can adjust your pattern.

Fitting the Bra, Part One

You can make your bras fit your unique curves smoothly and comfortably with Beverly’s simple instructions for tweaking your pattern. You’ll learn how to adjust strap length, fix a gaping or too-snug band and alter the bridge between the cups.

Fitting the Bra, Part Two

Cup fit issues are the trickiest part of bra making, so once you get your pattern adjusted with Beverly’s guidance, you’ll have a pattern that fits you just the way you want. Learn about adjusting the strap position or altering the neckline to get a better cup fit, and see how to round the cup crown, shift the apex or fix a too-flat lower cup. You’ll be amazed by how even a tiny adjustment will create just the right fit.

Bra Embellishments

With a basic bra in your repertoire, you can start branching out with fun embellishments such as ribbons and lace. Beverly explains how to choose lace and shows you how to make a stunning butterfly bra or add lace to the sides and back of your bra. Feast your eyes on the endless possibilities for embellishment as Beverly shares samples from her collection of beautiful bras. You’ll be inspired to get sewing and round out your own collection!

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    Sewing Bras: Construction & Fit
    Sewing Bras: Construction & Fit
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