Shirtmaking Details: Beyond the Basics

Class Preview

Make standard shirt patterns extraordinary by incorporating ready-to-wear details. Learn how to create custom collars, cuffs, sleeve plackets, hems and more.

Beyond the Basic Shirt

Meet designer David Page Coffin and take a look at shirt anatomy. With an understanding of the constants in a pattern, you can easily change the variables. You’ll see how David’s mini-muslins aid in the design process and save time, then learn how to get the right fit on the key pattern piece, the yoke.

Collars With a Stand

Stand collars are a good place to start with designing and refining. Using a template included with your class materials, David walks you through shaping, adding interfacing and getting the perfect curve as you sew. You’ll also learn point-turning tips and the burrito technique to attach stand to neckline.

The Convertible Collar

The versatile convertible collar has a facing and a variable roll line. Begin with a straightforward method of assembly, attaching the collar to the facing and shirt back. David also demonstrates how to incorporate a back yoke, with the advantage of providing a full facing and better shirt fit.

The Combination Collar

David’s favorite shirt collar is the combination or Italian collar, which integrates elements of shawl and convertible collars and offers myriad design options. Common in vintage patterns, it’s rare today, but you can make your own pattern pieces with the included templates and David’s guidance.

Plackets & Placket Variations

Release your inner sewing geek by mastering sleeve placket design. David deconstructs the pattern for you, then walks you through the marking, cutting, sewing and pressing process. Change up the placket’s size and style, even adding an integrated cuff, elbow patch or extra tucks for ease of movement.

Shaped Details: Pockets, Yokes & More

If you can draw a pleasing shape with the aid of a curved ruler, you can create a template for pressing and sewing that shape perfectly every time. Design unique patch pockets, a shaped yoke and other appliquéd elements for your shirts, and add double topstitching. David shows you how!

Putting It All Together

Finish class with an understanding of construction order and how it’s affected by details you add to your pattern. For example, hem and side seams are sewn before sleeves if you add a tiny gusset with your rolled hem foot. David shows how to sew this elegant detail, as well as setting in sleeves.