Mastering Construction: Collars & Closures

Class Preview

Make every neckline you sew a gorgeous focal point! Achieve designer-quality results with a variety of techniques for collars, plackets, closures and more.

Introduction & Camp Collars

Meet Sara Alm: patternmaker, author, teacher, designer and your guide to constructing collars and closures. Sara begins with an overview of collar design and construction. Then follow along as she prepares, sews and assembles a traditional camp collar.

Flat Collars

The flat collar, or collar without a stand, is a key element in many styles. In this lesson, Sara constructs a Peter Pan collar elegantly attached to the neckline with self-made bias tape. She’ll show you how to pick the right fabric for your bias trim, join the upper and undercollar, and complete the collar.

Collars With a Band

A band provides support and structure to a collar along with an added bit of style. Sara starts by showing an alternative way of providing support by stitching a channel for a collar stay. Then she shows how to construct the banded collar, topstitch your way to perfect points and interface appropriately.

Banded Collar Variations

The basic banded collar sets the stage for a range of style options. Sara starts by demonstrating the “burrito technique” that ensures a clean finish. Then she moves on to stand-alone bands with no collar attached, including her most dramatic variation yet: the fashionable, vintage-style secretary bow.

Notched Collars

The notched collar offers classic flair as well as added construction challenges. Sara begins with the anatomy of the collar and how it creates its signature step effect. You’ll learn to construct the collar with a perfectly stitched gorge point and a stabilized roll line to create a natural fold before setting and sewing the collar.

Plackets

Sara begins with the front-band placket, including pattern adaptation and construction methods for a fold-over, contrasting or precisely stitched partial placket. Finally, you’ll learn to easily create a covered button placket with an additional fabric extension and folds.

Facings, Buttonholes & Closures

Sara helps you decide when to use a facing instead of a placket, such as with an outer garment or large buttons, and how to adapt your pattern for a facing. In addition, you’ll learn guidelines for optimal buttonhole placement, when to use vertical or horizontal buttonholes, and how to fit a buttonhole to the buttons you choose.