Pant Construction Techniques: In the Details
Create your most elegant and well-finished pants. Learn designer techniques to sew details from bespoke tailoring, couture and ready-to-wear.
Class Preview
Create your most elegant and well-finished pants. Learn designer techniques to sew details from bespoke tailoring, couture and ready-to-wear.
Introduction
Meet expert pant maker and former Threads editor David Page Coffin and learn more about the anatomy of a pair of pants and the details that you’ll explore in this class. Davis shares the many couture and custom touches you can add for a high-end look and comfortable fit.
In-Seam Pockets
Begin with the easiest and most unobtrusive pocket, the in-seam pocket. Learn how to draft a cut-in facing for the pocket mouth, then secure and sew the layers of fashion fabric, facings and pocketing. David also shares insights on the perfect pocket shape.
Slash Pockets
A slash pocket allows for a more natural placement of the hand but requires a more elaborate facing and modification of your pattern pieces. David walks you through the drafting and sewing process. For added flair, the pocketing fabric can become piping at the pocket’s edge.
Welt Pockets
Explore single- and double-welt pockets with David’s guidance, for both the front and back of your pants. You’ll learn how to create straight or curved welts that lie flush with your fabric and how to add button tabs or pocket flaps if desired.
Zipper Flies
David reviews the types of zipper insertions you might choose, depending on your waistband treatment and seam placement. Then learn his techniques for adding zip flies, with an optional zipper shield, on pants with a cut-on waistband or a separate waistband.
Waistbands
Learn about the varieties of waistband treatments you can choose, whether cut on or sewn on, with or without an extension. David demonstrates the properties of his favorite waistband lining — Petersham ribbon — and shows how to integrate it with the fly on both kinds of waistbands.
Finishing Details
Belt loops and button tabs are design elements that you can easily experiment with and create using templates. David demonstrates how, then takes you on a journey of pant-making inspiration with a trunk show of vintage garments, including jodhpurs!
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