Professional Bezel-Setting Techniques

Class Preview

Gain the skills to showcase any stone with a well-crafted bezel! Learn techniques to create three distinctive settings that are just as beautiful as the gemstones they house.

Push-Over Bezel: Rounds & Ovals

Meet jeweler Danielle Miller-Gilliam and preview the three versatile bezel settings you’ll make in class. Begin with Danielle’s foolproof tips for forming a push-over bezel and you’ll see how to measure, shape and solder it. Plus, get tips on fine-tuning the bezel, ensuring that the cabochon fits perfectly inside.

Push-Over Bezel: Setting the Stone

Now that you’ve ensured the fit of your stone, finish your setting and create a lovely ring. With Danielle’s guidance, discover how to create a sturdy solder joint on a textured ring shank before soldering it to your bezel cup. Then, get step-by-step instruction on setting the stone by hand for a polished and professional look.

Push-Over Bezel: Free-Form Stones

Use the techniques you’ve learned so far to transform a faceted rose-cut stone and free-form cabochon into wearable art. Danielle walks through the entire process of measuring, shaping and setting free-form shapes. Working with transparent stones? Danielle shares important design considerations.

Hammer-Set Bezel: Rounds & Ovals

Learn how to fabricate sophisticated and sturdy hammer-set bezels as you begin making an attractive round cabochon ring. Gain confidence measuring and shaping thicker gauge metal, then see Danielle’s effective method of soldering a horseshoe-shaped ring shank to the backplate for a solid connection.

Hammer-Set Bezel: Setting the Stone

Finish the ring you started in Lesson 4 by hammer-setting the stone. After filing the bezel to the correct height, Danielle shows you how to use a hammer and setting tools, as well as a flex shaft attachment, to secure the cabochon. Then, make your pieces shine with Danielle’s trusty polishing tips.

Hammer-Set Bezel: Fancy Shapes

Whether you’re fabricating an intricate marquise, triangle or pear-shaped setting, Danielle demystifies the process! Learn how to accurately measure your bezel length with Danielle’s favorite trick. Then, find out Danielle’s go-to method for securing pendants and earrings in a vise to fit and set the stone.

Tab-Set Bezel: Corners

Expand your design possibilities — and add visual impact to your jewelry — with a striking tab-set bezel. Using a two-wire bezel fabrication technique, Danielle demonstrates her tried-and-true method for creating sharp corners. Learn how to wield your saw and cut tabs to the proper height, and secure your stone.